Miscellaneous Posts by Rhiannon

When, on my first visit to Glenelg, I arrived at the first of the two brochs, that of Dun Telve, the larger, which stands in a field on the right, entered by a white gate, I found a mason at work on the initial stages of restoration.

The details of the work so successfully carried out are not only intensely interesting, but they afford so admirable an example of true restoration as opposed to ruinous rebuilding operations miscalled "restoration," that i give them as kindly detailed to me by the young architect to whose art, approaching genius, and ingenuity the broch's preservation is due.

He found that the ends of the broch had been pinned up in cement, and promptly cut away this obscuration and negation of the distinctive feature of drystone buildings. In such danger of falling was this broch that it had been shored up with heavy timbers, and, after careful examination and prolonged consideration, it was resolved to consolidate the building by grouting in cement that part which was in the greatest danger of collapse.

But in order that there might appear no trace of the use of cement, the joints of the section to be grouted were previously carefully packed with clay. Thus, when the cement was poured in at certain points, it found no outlet, and when the clay was thereafter washed away, there was no outward indication anywhere visible of the extremely clever and most artistic method of restoration adopted. Then, when the shoring could be safely removed, the broch was excavated; and, besides foundations of some out-buildings being brought to light, several stone cups and whorls were discovered.

Several years after, on returning to Glenelg, I saw this perfect restoration completed, as well as that of the second broch, untouched when I had previously seen it; and whenever I think of these fascinating works of art, the delight which I experienced in hovering about them at once returns to me.

A singular cavern, called Kent's-Hole, is considered as the greatest curiosity in this part of the county. It is about a mile distant from Torquay. Two women, whose usual business it is, conducted us to the spot, provided with candles, tinder-boxes, and other necessaries for the expedition.

After pursuing rather an intricate track, we arrived at the mouth of the cavern, and soon saw there was some occasion for the assistance of guides, who presented each of us with a candle stuck in a piece of slitted stick. The aperture was just large enough to admit us. As we advanced, our guides fixed candles on the sides of the cavern, in order to give us as much light as possible, and to provide against the consequences of an extinction of those we held in our hands.

The chill we received after having entered is inconceivable, and our clothes were moistened, (as it happens in the Peak) by the continual dropping of water from the roof. The lights, when viewed at a distance, gleaming through the gloomy vaults, and reflected by the pendant crystals, had a most singular effect.

We began to fancy ourselves in the abode of some magician, or (as our companions were two ancient females, and not the most comely of their years) in the clutches of some mischievous old witches, the representation of whose habitations in Shakespere's Macbeth we could for once persuade ourselves had its foundation in nature.

Kent's-hole is in no part more than twenty feet high, but the bottom of it is very irregular, being sometimes on an ascent, and sometimes on a descent, and the moisture of the stone on which we trod rendered both not a little difficult and dangerous. -- The roof is in some places so low that we were obliged to advance on our knees. -- At length we reached the extremity of the cavern, which is full two hundred yards long, and, though it sometimes winds, seems to run for the most part in a southern direction. As no great elevation of ground appears on the outside, the declivity of it must be considerable.

About a mile and a half from Woodyates' Inn, we observed several tumuli, or barrows, some of which are extremely large. There are also four circular trenches, each about sixty feet in diameter, and having a sort of hillock in the centre, that appears to be depressed or sunk in the middle. It is probable that these last were used in the performance of some religious or funereal rites, and are coeval with the former; that they are as old as the British times, seems evident from the following circumstance: the Roman road reduces the size of one of them that lay in the line of its course, the bank being in one part incomplete. On the declivity of the hill to the left, there are vestiges of some extensive entrenchments, which afford reason for believing that this spot might once have been the scene of an important battle.

Near the Dawns Men, in the fence of a field by the footpath leading to Borah, is another holed stone, laid down lengthways. It is thirty-three inches wide at one end, tapering down to ten inches at the other, and seven inches in thickness. The circular hole, five inches in diameter, is seven inches from the extremity of the widest portion.

In Cornwall there are Monuments of a very singular kind, which have hitherto escaped the notice of Travellers; and, though elsewhere in Britain, doubtless, as well as here, in like situations, have never been remarked upon (as far as I can learn) by any Writer; they are Hollows, or artificial Basons, sunk into the surface of the Rocks.

The first which I met with of this kind were those cut into a Karn, or large groupe of Rocks, in the tenement of Bosworlas, in the Parish of St. Just, Penwith, in the year 1737. Three of them may be seen, Plate XX. Fig. VII. d, e, f, p. 219.

There are many more Hollows of the same kind on this Karn; and in the tops of several separate large Rocks, which are scattered in the Valley beneath, there are more, and some have one single Bason on their highest part.

On the other side of the road, the third field on the Penzance side of the farm-hamlet of Trewren, is a stone of similar character to those last mentioned*, now used as a rubbing-post for cattle. This stone is six feet five inches high, averages six feet in circumference, and is tapering towards the top. In an adjoining field is another used for a similar purpose, tapering towards the top, of wedge-like form, six feet in height, and eight feet in circumference at the base. Both these stones appear to be too large to have been erected originally for rubbing-posts.

But the most astonishing Monument of this kind, is in the Tenement of Men, in the Parish of Constantine, Cornwall (Plate XIII.) It is one vast egg-like stone, placed on the points of two natural Rocks, so that a man may creep under the great one, and between its supporters, through a passage about three feet wide, and as much high.

The longest diameter of this Stone is 33 foot from C to D, pointing due North and South; from A to B, is 14 feet 6 deep; and the breadth in the middle of the surface, where widest, was 18 feet 6 wide from East to West. I measured one half of the circumference, and found it, according to my computation, 48 feet and half, so that this Stone is 97 feet in circumference, about 60 feet cross the middle, and, by the best informations I can get, contains at least 750 tons of Stone.

Getting up by a ladder to view the top of it, we found the whole surface worked, like an imperfect, or mutilated Honey-comb, into Basons; one much larger than the rest (bb), was at the South-end, about seven foot long; another at the North (cc), about five; the rest smaller, seldom more than one foot, oftentimes not so much, the sides and shape irregular.

Most of these Basons discharge into the two principal ones (which lie in the middle of the surface), those only excepted which are near the brim of the Stone, and they have little lips or chanels (marked in Plate XIII, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5) which discharge the Water they collect over the sides of the Tolmen, adn the flat Rocks which lie underneath receive the droppings in Basons cut into their surfaces.

This Stone is no less wonderful for its position, than for its size; for although the underpart is nearly semi-circular, yet it rests on the two large Rocks E, F; and so light, and detached, does it stand, that it touches the two under stones but as it were on their points, and all the Sky appears at G.

A Correspondent writes:--
"Immediately beneath the Main (or Mean) rock, is an extensive and valuable quarry of superior granite, which has been worked to a depth of about forty feet, and close up to the bed on which the Main rock rested. This quarry has been worked by a man named Dunstan, who appears to have had a great desire to get at the valuable bed of granite on which the rock rested; and unknown to Mr. W. Hosken, the proprietor of the land, we are informed, has been working after dark, boring holes and blasting underneath the rock. He appears to have failed in his first attempt, but on Tuesday he bored a hole on the other side, and put in a charge, which, when fired, threw the Tolmen off its pivot, when it gradually, and as if reluctantly, rolled into the quarry beneath, where it now lies forty feet below the place it has occupied for centuries, to the wonder and admiration of thousands. Soon after it fell into the quarry these greedy Goths fell on it like crows on carrion, and commenced boring holes in it, intending with their rippers and wedges to split it in pieces; but, fortunately, the proprietor was informed of what had taken place, and he immediately gave orders that it should remain as it is, as it was contrary to his wish that it should have been disturbed."

To the Editor of the Times.
Sir, - You recorded last week the destruction of the great Tolmaen, in Constantine parish, near Penrhyn, which was blown up a few days ago for the sake of the granite by a man named Dunstan. Having been informed some weeks ago by the Rev. Mr. Winwood that the Tolmaen was in danger, I put myself in communication with the proprietor, Mr. Haskin, intending to offer some compensation for, or, if possible, to acquire it permanently for the nation; but I was assured that there was no reason for any anxiety on the subject.
The mischief done is of course irreparable: but every right-minded man must condemn the wanton barbarism of him who has thus destroyed, for the mere sake of the granite on which it stood, a monument which old Borlase called the 'most astonishing of its kind.'
I am, Sir, your obedient servant,
John Lubbock.


In consequence of a communication from Sir John Lubbock in reference to the destruction of the great Tolmaen in Cornwall, the Council of the Ethnological Society has named a committee to ascertain the present state of prehistoric monuments in these islands, and the best means for their preservation. The committee comprises Sir John Lubbock, Professor Huxley, Colonel Lane Fox, Mr. Hyde Clark, Mr. Blackmore, Mr. John Evans, Mr. A.W. Franks, Mr. T. Wright, Mr. H.G. Bohn, and Mr. Samuel Laing, Vice-President.

The "Fallen Kistvaen" lies about three quarters of a mile due south of that in Temple Bottom, and owing to the heath and furze which abound thereabouts is not easily discovered. Parts of the mound which once covered it, and some of the stones which apparently surrounded it, are still to be seen.

When I first became acquainted with it - some twenty-five years ago - the covering stone, a very massive slab, was entire, but one or more of its supporters having given way, it had slid from its original position, and rested on the ground, still, however, in part upheld by some of its props; and thus, though fallen, presenting an interesting specimen of the kistvaen.

When, however, I visited it about ten years since (and I generally do visit it annually), judge of my dismay at finding the capstone split across by some workmen, who - ignorant that it differed in any respect from the many other sarsen stones lying all round - had selected that unfortunate stone for some building purpose. To arrest the work of destruction was not difficult, for on communication with the then owner, Mr. Baskerville, orders were immediately given that the stones should be spared; adn now that the property has passed into the hands of the noble President of this Meeting, we need not fear any farther injury to it.

The indifference of the stone-masons to the covering stone of the kistvaen is not so surprizing when even so good an antiquary as Aubrey relates how he and Dr. Charleton pointed it out to His Majesty Charles II. and the Duke of York as one of the stones intended for Stonehenge, and "resting on three low stones, as a suffulciment as in order to be carried away"!

The "Mutilated Kistvaen" lies in the centre of the valley known as Temple Bottom, and south-east of Temple Farm, conjectured to be so called from the preceptory of Knights Templars established there in the reign of Henry II. It occupies the corner of a field, very near some detached farm buildings on the estate of Rockley. Sir Richard Hoare spoke of it in his time as "the mutilated remains of a stone barrow, having a kistvaen at the end of it;" and said "it is the finest example we have yet found of this species of interment, excepting the one in Clatford Bottom." (North Wilts, page 42.) I fear Sir Richard would not say the same of it now.

When I first saw it some twenty years ago, it presented little more than the appearance of a heap of stones: indeed a great many loose stones were scattered round the large and more prominent ones, and it was choked with briars and brambles. Unpromising however as was its exterior, I had a great desire to examine its interior, and having received the ready permission of the owner of the property (the same liberal gentleman who so kindly allows us to examine the barrows at Rockley on Thursday next, Mr. William Tanner), I enlisted the help of my friends, Mr. Lukis (then my colleague as one of the Secretaries of this Society) and Mr. Spicer, Rector of Byfleet, in Surrey, and on June 12th, 1861, we proceeded to excavate the stone chamber.

With regard to the formation of the exterior part of it, whether it was originally covered with one or more roofing slabs, and whether it had a covered passage leading to it, we were unable to form any decided opinion, owing to the confusion of stones and its generally dilapidated condition: but we found a sepulchral chamber, guarded by a circle of upright stones, some of them in position; and on the floor of this chamber indications of a layer of charcoal, calcined human bones, and fragments of coarse pottery: we found also several unburnt bones, portions of a human skull and teeth; some of the bones of a hand and foot; and above all a well-formed and perfect bone chisel (now in our Museum at Devizes), of which a sketch is annexed.

We then examined the narrow space between the two parallel upright stones, and at B found unburnt bones of a hand and foot and fragments of pottery, and at C portions of a human skull and teeth, and a stone muller or rubber. The orientation of this chamber was probably east and west.

Fig. 12, Plate VIII. is a South-east view of three remarkable hills at the South end of Stanton moor, on which there are Druidical monuments (a). Careliff rocks on the top are a rocking stone and several rock basons; at the foot of these rocks at (b) is a hermitage. The rocks marked (c) form Graned Tor, or Mock Beggars Hall; the hill (d) is Dutwood Tor, where (e) is a rock canopy that hangs over an augurial seat; on the top of this Tor are three rock basons, evidently cut with a tool. This view was taken from near the bottom of the hill [f], on which there are several large rocks called Bradley rocks; on the top is a large rocking stone.

I flatter myself you will agree with me in lamenting, that these curious remains of antiquity should have been so much neglected, and that the want of attention, in not making accurate observations on the form and construction of these rock monuments, should occasion a disbelief of their being Druidical.

I am, with great respect,
Dear Sir,
Your sincere and much obliged
humble Servant,
H.Rooke

The hillfort has been identified by some researchers as the capital of Cartimandua. It has also been interpreted as the capital or chief stronghold of the Kingdom of Elmet and was later owned by Edwin Earl of Mercia.

Mr. H. St. George Gray writes: "On Saturday morning, December 2, the southern of the two large stones at Beckhampton, in the parish of Avebury, North Wilts, fell without giving any warning. Had there been any indication of the likelihood of a fall, the owner of the arable field in which these large sarsens are situated (Mr. George Brown) would have had the stone propped. Within living memory it has always leaned to the south, whereas the stone standing some twenty-five paces to the north-east leans in a northerly direction. The fallen stone is rather the larger of the two. In its prostrate position it measures 18 feet 4 inches in length, its maximum width being nearly 16 feet; approximate thickness, 4 feet 7 inches. Its depth below the surface fo the field was found to be only 2 feet 6 inches; any sockethole there may be cut into the solid chalk must therefore be very shallow. Several small blocks of stones have been revealed by the fall of the monolith.

[...] On the Ordnance sheet the stones at Beckhampton are called 'Long Stones.' They are also known as the 'Longstone Cove,' and the'Devil's Quoits.' Aubrey spoke of three upright stones, but only two remained in Stukeley's time. [...]"

About a quarter of mile further on [from Trefignath ], near Trearddur farm, close to the road on the road on the right, there are the traces of a similar cromlech (now nearly obliterated), called Coetan Arthur. Near this spot, in 1837, a vessel containing a great many Roman copper coins was found, of the later emperors. I took them to the British Museum, but there was none peculiar; and I regret that they were purloined in transmission by post to the owner.

The cromlech, or rather cistvaen, of Trefigneth stands upon a rocky knoll close to the farmhouse of Trefigneth, about a mile and a half from Holyhead. There is a commanding view from it over the port and bay of Holyhead, with the Skerries island and lighthouse, and the opposite coast of Anglesey, in the distance.

About seventy or eighty years ago many of the stones, which formed the covered chamber, were wantonly taken for gate-posts and lintels; but the late Lady Stanley of Penrhos preserved it from further destruction at that time, and it remains now as it then was.

It presents the appearance of having been a covered chamber, of about 20 feet in length, 4 feet in height inside, and 4 feet wide, composed of a row of upright stones on each side, covered with large flat stones. There is a tradition that, when first exposed, on the removal of the superincumbent mound of earth or stones, that urns and human bones were found inside.

This tumulus has always been known as 'Long Barrow,' and the field in which it is situated as 'Long Barrow Field', but this designation was probably given to it at a comparatively recent period, when the Chedworth district of the extensive Cotswold range was first inclosed.

I learned that the southern end of the barrow had been disturbed about twenty years since for the purpose of obtaining stone, when three human skeletons were found lying side by side, but unaccompanied by relics of any description. The teeth were remarkably perfect. This rather invited than discouraged further investigation, for, although the centre of the mound appeared to have been disturbed on its surface, I was led to believe that this was attributable to the labourers in search of stone, and that it had never been ransacked by the antiquary or the treasure-seeker.

We commenced excavations on the eastern side of the south end of the mound, which appeared to be intact, and on reaching the interior it became evident that the floor of the barrow had been excavated to a depth of two feet below the natural surface of the soil. The sides were built up with the smaller stones of the district, in the manner of 'a dry wall,' but nearer the centre the stones were of larger size, and all were placed with great apparent care, plainly showing that this end of the barrow had not been disturbed since its first formation.

After a careful search for some hours, and the removal of a vast number of stones, we were satisfied that there had been no deposit of any kind in this portion of the barrow, and we proceeded to remove the stones at the opposite end, where the skeletons already mentioned had been found. As the work proceeded it became obvious that the stones here were not placed with care; in fact that they had been thrown together without order or arrangement, and that this barrow had been assailed at some distant period.

Nothing but the hope that the mound had been imperfectly explored would have tempted further search, and this at length ended in the finding of the metal tag of a lace and a minute fragment of pottery. By the dark brown glaze upon the latter, it is probably not earlier than the end of the sixteenth or beginning of the seventeenth century, and to this period I would refer the first assault of the barrow at Pinkwell.

THOMAS CHAPMAN, Esq. communicated an Account, by Mr. SAMUEL ANDERSON of Whitby, of the Opening of an ancient British Barrow, known as Swarthoue.

This Barrow stands on a lofty ridge of land, four miles from Whitby, and eighty yards from the high road leading from that place to Guisborough. It is the centre one of three Barrows having a direction W.N.W. and E.S.E., and is the largest of the ancient British Tumuli in its immediate vicinity.

There has been at one time a line of large stones pointing from one Barrow to the other, but only two of these now remain. On these are several markings, corresponding with those on a stone found within the Barrow.

The circumference of Swarthoue is 280 feet at its base. An opening was commenced on the N.W. side, removing a section to the centre, and going down to the surface of the ground on which it is based; the cutting was then continued in a westerly direction, and, after reaching the surface again, traces of an interment were discovered, with an urn of the usual character.

A further search led to the discovery of two spear-heads of flint, and two ornaments of jet; one of them a ring punctured with two holes as if for suspension, the other with one hole only.

On the N.W. side were discovered traces of dark matter, apparently the decomposed remains of a human body which had been buried entire. Further excavations were proceeded with to the south, and to the eastward, when a stone flag was found to cover a vault measuring internally three feet by two feet, and about sixteen inches deep, the sides being formed of two stones each, and the ends of one only. Within this Cist or Coffin nothing was discovered save a little charcoal and some dark decomposed matter. A little further a portion of a bone Pin, and a small Urn embedded in charcoal, and calcined bones, were found.

This Barrow had been laid slightly concave, or "dished" at the top. It had three walls running across it from north to south, about five feet in length and three feet apart, four feet in height and about two feet thick, many of the stones being so large that they were as much as two strong men could lift. The only object of importance found within these walls was a marked or carved stone of a character similar to that already mentioned.

Carreg y Llech.
A monolith of sandstone, containing nuggets of iron stone, some of which have dropped out, leaving holes or pockets. It stands in a low-lying meadow, and is 6 feet high, 6 1/2 feet broad, with an average thickness of 18 inches, and leans towards the west. The remains of a low bank or base of earth, 6 inches high, are perceptible to the west, and around the stone can be seen what appears to be a rough pavement of small cobbles. - Visited, 1st June, 1910.

On the mountain to the east of the common way to Calcoed, are two stones, about three feet high, and about twenty-two feet distant from each other. They are called Naid-y-March, or the horse's leap, from a vulgar notion of the derivation of the name. They are of the very antient British origin, and probably the place of interment of some hero whose body was deposited between stone and stone. The distance might be intended to give an idea of his mighty size; as Alexander is supposed, on his return out of India, to have buried various suits of armor, of gigantic dimensions, to impose on future times an exalted notion of the troops he had led to this distant country.

In the parish of West Hoadley, about three or four miles south of East-Grinsted, the ground in many places rises in high ridges with craggy cliffs. About half a mile west of West Hoadley church, there is a high narrow ridge covered with wood. The edge of this is a craggy cliff composed of enormous blocks of sand-stone. The soil hath been intirely washed from off them, and in many places from the interstices by which they are divided. One perceives these craggs, with bare broad white foreheads; and as it were, overlooking the wood which cloaths the valley at their feet.

In going to the place I passed across this deep valley, and was led by a narrow foot-path almost trackless, up to the cliff, which seems as one advances to hang over one's head. The mind in this passage is prepared with all the suspended feelings of awe and reverence; and as one approaches this particular rock standing with its stupendous bulk poised, seemingly in a miraculous manner, on a point, one is struck with amazement.

The recess in which it stands hath, behind this rock, and the rocks which surround it, a withdrawn and recluse passage, which the eye cannot look into but with an idea of its coming from some more secrete and holy adyt.

All these circumstances in an age of tutored superstition would give even to the firmest minds the impressions that lead to idolatry.

[...]

I make no doubt that if the Druids had resided in these parts, but that they would have adopted and consecrated this our Great upon Little, as one of their mysterious rocks, one of their symbols of the Numen, whom they taught the people to worship. Other priests also of the northern people might have done the same. The object itself would inspire, and the nature of the place where it is found would conspire to this imagination...