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Orkney

Orkney Trip

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this year the Girlfriend and i would love to get up to Orkney to see the sights and stones, but planning it so far we have hit a wall. as it just seems so expensive.

so if anyone has done this trip before some hints and pointers would be helpfull. id like to drive, and we are in Birmingham. driving is no problem for me but im guessing its going to mean a stop over near the top of Scotland.

the ultimate would be to go to Orkney and the surounding islands and Lewis. but i assume this is to hard to do? would we need 2 weeks to do that?

sleeptowin wrote:
this year the Girlfriend and i would love to get up to Orkney to see the sights and stones, but planning it so far we have hit a wall. as it just seems so expensive.

so if anyone has done this trip before some hints and pointers would be helpfull. id like to drive, and we are in Birmingham. driving is no problem for me but im guessing its going to mean a stop over near the top of Scotland.

the ultimate would be to go to Orkney and the surounding islands and Lewis. but i assume this is to hard to do? would we need 2 weeks to do that?

If you don't mind the trip from Brum to Thurso etc then the drive round the top and down to Ullapool is nothing plus it's great scenery . if you were booked it might be possible to leave Orkney and arrive on lewis in a day or vice versa .Must say though I would stay at one or the other .

I am looking forward to reading the replies to this enquiry as I really want to go back next year … under my own steam.

Last summer I visited Orkney at midsummer. Because I was on my own and without a car, I opted to go on a ‘tour’ organised by a local travel company so can’t answer most of the questions you might have – except to say I would not do such a long journey by coach again (an overnight sleeper train next time).
The coach journey up to Thurso, the most northerly town in the UK, was done over two days; it involved a compulsory stop at Gretna Green on the Scottish borders which is sad tourist trap and definitely to be avoided. The first overnight stay was at Stirling and because it was still light at 10.00pm I was able to explore the historic streets and castle - a good place to stay over. The next day it was up through the West Highlands with various stops at the most beautiful falls and lochs … then across to north east Scotland following the Caledonian Ship Canal.

Caithness was a very different landscape; driving through heavy mist … even from the cocooned safety of a coach it felt remote and isolated.

The group stayed in Thurso for three nights which is a greystone, un-touristy working town with plenty of hotels. Amazing cliff top walks along the coast from Scrabster with great views across to the Old Man of Hoy. We crossed over to Orkney by ferry from Scrabster and the next two nights were spent in a ferry birth – looking out to sea from the cabin in ‘daylight’ at midnight was an experience I won’t forget.

Orkney blew me away – it was love at first sight and although the trip to Shetland was wonderful in many ways, it didn’t have the same impact as Orkney.

I believe you can get the ferry or a flight from both Aberdeen and Inverness and although I avoid flying as much as possible, I would consider making the short flight across to Orkney next time I go.

Eeh, ya lucky swine!

We've driven to Orkney and the Outer Hebrides (separately) from Southampton (through Brum) - you're in for a treat! Well, several treats. I'll see if I can furnish you with more info and ideas later...

G x

[EDIT - Actually, I seem to remember someone doing the Lewis-Orkney run in a limited time a few years back on here - can't remember who it was, but I do remember thinking they were bonkers doing it in such a short space of time! They had a great time, though, whoever it was! :) It should be somewhere in the forum's archives if I had time to seek it out... ]

Avoid the town centre pubs in Thurso, the locals can be hostile towards English folk. Sad but true. Thurso isn't a nice place really.
Enjoy Orkney it's a lovely place and the Orkney folk are much nicer!

(((Charlie born in England, brought up in Thurso)))

My friend and I spent a couple of weeks on Orkney three years ago. Unfortunately we didn't get to travel around the islands like we'd intended to as the dog fell ill - on the plus side, the vet in Kirkwall successfully diagnosed the problem with his heart, and put him on the medication which is still keeping him going. :-)

The journey was actually pretty straightforward. I drove up from Lancashire to Perth, stopped there overnight, then carried on up to Scrabster the following day, with stops at the Grey Cairns of Camster and the Hill o' Many Stanes en route. While I was trundling up the A9, Louise got the first ferry out of Stornoway to Ullapool, and drove round to meet me at Scrabster. A quick transfer of kit from my van to her car, and we caught the last NorthLink ferry of the day to Stromness.

Coming back, we got the first ferry out of Stromness, and while Louise headed back round to Ullapool and the last boat to Stornoway, I retraced my steps to Perth for another overnight stop, then back down to Lancashire the next day via the Loupin' Stanes and the Girdle Stanes.

Even with all the dog-related upset, we still had a great trip and managed to take in pretty much all the Mainland sites, and get over to Rousay. Would definitely love to go back sometime.

I had a similar story growing up Charlie.

I hate bigotry, but I feel for those generations that had to sit through English history lessons which deliberately excluded anything Scottish, and along with compulsory R.E. lessons deliberately excluded anything before christianity as being savage times we need not bother with. I myself experienced this in school in the eighties. In breeding ignorance you breed contempt, the contempt tends to be directed at the percieved source of the problem. I find the chip comment quite harsh really, even if it's true, in light of the pain that kind of ignorance causes. I see it regularly. A friend of mine who is older said he got in trouble for speaking Gaelic as a child in Orkney, and for showing an interest in folklore and history. IT was beaten out of him by his minister. Now he has to admit to that ignorance when, for instance, I asked him to tell me about Orkney Selkies. He had to ask me if I was making it up, because the church stamped out folklore after the last war up there. Then he felt ashamed he didn't know his own history, I could tell, and made a comment about me being well versed on SCottish folklore - for an English. Lashing out. Yeah it's a chip, but it makes me sad, not contemptuous. Those that have never known the pain of their own ignorance wouldn't understand.

Then again - you have the just plain stupid.

If your'e there in late July -August and possibly even earlier it could be quite spectacular if last years digs are anything to go on .

No, I'm not joking, most ways into Orkney you will now need a photo ID [and to get out, so for the moment I'm a prisoner here ;-) ]

The coach from the Great Glen (and beyond) to the Northlink ferry is well catered for, but the local bus doesn't wait at the railway station for trains delayed by any amount. Also going by train I used to find that you had to stay on the mainland overnight one leg of the journey. True, the coach journey is long, but man, the view over sheer drops from up in one are bloody lovely.

Major road works in the Gret Glen almost all summer... should be a nightmare. Thank feck I'm doing private tours this year.

Brilliant, thanks for all the helpfull replies. i think we should just do Orkney and the surrounding bits, and Lewis another time.

we will drive up and stay over then get the ferry the next morning, and hopefully stay a week. i dont mind driving. its quite nice with the music on and the sights, and we can stop when ever we feel like it. no rush really.

now to find somewhere to stay while we are up there.

i think Late August/ Early september will do us.

oh and its ok, we dont really drink so wont be going in any of the wrong pubs and scaring the locals.

Can't help with the problems of expense. When Loie and I did Driving the Stone Age I; Spring 1999; we stayed in nice b&bs. Less expensive than hotels, perhaps, but not like sleeping in the caravan. We used the Scottish Tourist Board offices to book a place in the next town before we left the current one. Worked like a charm, except for one time when an office closed early. In that case, we just drove on and found a place to stay by looking for signs!

Our hostess at Kilmore gave us a tip. Book only one night at the B & B until you get there, then make it two nights. This saves the 10% commission taken by the Tourist Board on the second night. We did just that.

We flew to Glasgow, arrived Tues, 5/25/99, grabbed hire car and drove to Drumnadrochit. (Corrimony Cairn, Balnuaran of Clava (Clava Cairns), Learable Hill.)

Thurs. 5/27/99 we drove to Uig and ferried to Tarbert. (The McLeod Stone, Callanish I. Unnamed cairn viewed from car. Ceann Thulabhaig. Callanish II & III.)

Sat 5/29/99 we ferried from Stornoway to Ullapool and drove to Thurso. That's where we had to search out a b&b.

Sunday 5/30/99 departed Scrabster via ferry to Stromness. (Ring of Brodgar. Skara Brae. Marwick Head. Stones of Stenness. View of unnamed standing stone. Barnhouse. Salt Knowe. Unstan Tomb. Maes Howe. Isbister (Tomb of Eagles).)

Wednesday, 6/2/99 departed Stromness via ferry for Scrabster. Drove to Kennethmont via the Templestones. (Easter Aquhorthies. Castle Fraser stones. Sunhoney. Cullerlie. Archaeolink. Loanhead of Daviot. Nameless Stanes of Earlsfield Farm. Guise Farm. Midmar Kirk.)

After that we went on to Peebles for a couple days. (Rosslyn Chapel. Edinburgh: Royal Museum of Scotland, Grayfriars Bobby, Edinburgh Castle, the Royal Mile, Deacon Brody’s House, Advocate’s Close. The Borders. Bellingham, England. Goatstones. Hadrian’s Wall.)

Would have been nice to have more time in each place, but we saw the highlights and loved every minute. On Orkney, see if the Jollys are still making kippers. Yum.

Man, I can't believe we moved so many times that trip. Now, we go to one rental house or apartment and stay a week or 10 days. Hah! Must be getting old.

Just to add to the thread. I am planning to go to the Orkneys in early July this year. We are driving up the west coast of Scotland (via overnight stops at Helensburgh / Invergary / Ullapool and Thurso. Then 7 nights in Stromness before returning to South Wales down the east coast of Scotland (stopping off at Helmsdale / Inverness and again at Helensburgh). Needless to say my itinery is chock-a-block with a full 16 days of 'old stones ' and 'old castles' planned. I plan to have 1 day on Rousay and 1 day on Hoy - 5 days on Mainland Orkney. This is my 'once in a lifetime' holiday so I am enjoing reading all your experiences of previous visits to the Orkneys. I plan to give an updat on my return. It may take some time to write!! Best wishes to all who read this.

sleeptowin wrote:
this year the Girlfriend and i would love to get up to Orkney to see the sights and stones, but planning it so far we have hit a wall. as it just seems so expensive.

so if anyone has done this trip before some hints and pointers would be helpfull. id like to drive, and we are in Birmingham. driving is no problem for me but im guessing its going to mean a stop over near the top of Scotland.

the ultimate would be to go to Orkney and the surounding islands and Lewis. but i assume this is to hard to do? would we need 2 weeks to do that?

When were you planning on going? We were also planning a trip this year sometime when finances are looking a little less grim. We are only in sunny Wolves, maybe a car share would be helpful :)

Did Orkney in a week and saw most of it. Inter-island boats easy and cheap.
Ferry from mainland to main island leaves mid-morning - we timed our overnight drive to arrive at 9:00. OK if you're prepared to share the driving!
Camping is not a prob.